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How to Sew the BB (Bow and Bell) Skirt – Complete Guide (with Size Chart!)
The BB Skirt — short for Bow and Bell — is one of my most-loved patterns. It features a beautiful, gathered bell silhouette, a hidden bow-tie pocket detail, and an invisible zipper. It looks intricate, but with the right preparation it's very manageable. In this guide, I'll walk you through everything you need to know before you start sewing.
👉 Get the BB Skirt Pattern on Etsy
What Is the BB Skirt?
The BB Skirt is a feminine, full-length skirt featuring:
- Two pocket style options: Type A (Big Bow Pocket) or Type B (Thin Bow Pocket)
- A gathered bell hem for a voluminous, elegant silhouette
- A hidden invisible zipper at the center back
- A clean waistband with a polished finish
- Optional lining for sheer or lightweight fabrics
- Available in sizes US 0 through US 26
The skirt is designed to fall approximately 7 cm (2-3/4") above the ankle bone on a person who is 153 cm (5') tall, with a skirt length of 78.67 cm (31"). You can adjust the length before cutting to suit your height.
Watch the Tutorial First 🎬
Before you dive in, I recommend watching the full sewing tutorial on YouTube — it makes the written instructions so much easier to follow!
Full BB Skirt Sewing Tutorial
What You'll Need
Main Fabric
Light to medium-weight, non-stretch, woven fabrics are recommended:
- Cotton or linen poplin
- Batiste
- Voile
Required Fabric Yardage
| Fabric Width | US 0 – US 12 | US 14 – US 26 |
|---|---|---|
| 120 cm (47") wide | 3 yd (2.8 m) | 3 yd (2.8 m) |
| 140 cm (55") wide | 2.5 yd (2.3 m) | 2.5 yd (2.3 m) |
If you plan to lengthen the skirt, be sure to add extra yardage accordingly.
Lining Fabric (Optional)
Lining is optional but recommended for sheer or lightweight fabrics. Use:
- Cotton lawn, voile, or batiste for cotton garments
- Habotai, chiffon, or satin for silk garments
- Viscose or rayon lining
Required: 110 cm (43") wide / 2 yd (1.8 m)
Note: Due to Etsy's 5-file limit, the lining pattern is not included in the download. If you need it, send a message via Etsy, email, or Instagram and it will be sent to you right away.
Additional Supplies
- Invisible zipper: 27 cm–35.5 cm (11"–14") long, 1 piece
- Fusible interfacing tape: 1 cm (3/8") wide / 48 cm (18-7/8") long
- Matching thread, pins, zipper foot for your sewing machine
Sizing Guide
Choose your size based on your waist measurement. If you are between sizes, choose the smaller waist size.
Body Measurements
| Size | Waist | Hip |
|---|---|---|
| US 0 | 60 cm / 23-5/8" | 86 cm / 33-7/8" |
| US 2 | 64 cm / 25-1/4" | 90 cm / 35-3/8" |
| US 4 | 68 cm / 26-3/4" | 94 cm / 37" |
| US 6 | 72 cm / 28-3/8" | 98 cm / 38-5/8" |
| US 8 | 76 cm / 29-7/8" | 102 cm / 40-1/4" |
| US 10 | 80 cm / 31-1/2" | 106 cm / 41-3/4" |
| US 12 | 84 cm / 33-1/8" | 110 cm / 43-3/8" |
| US 14 | 88 cm / 34-5/8" | 114 cm / 44-7/8" |
| US 16 | 92 cm / 36-1/4" | 118 cm / 46-1/2" |
| US 18 | 96 cm / 37-3/4" | 122 cm / 48" |
| US 20 | 100 cm / 39-3/8" | 126 cm / 49-5/8" |
| US 22 | 104 cm / 40-7/8" | 130 cm / 51-1/8" |
| US 24 | 108 cm / 42-1/2" | 134 cm / 52-3/4" |
| US 26 | 112 cm / 44-1/8" | 138 cm / 54-3/8" |
Finished Garment Measurements
| Size | Waist | Hip |
|---|---|---|
| US 0 | 60 cm / 23-5/8" | 90 cm / 35-3/8" |
| US 2 | 64 cm / 25-1/4" | 94 cm / 37" |
| US 4 | 68 cm / 26-3/4" | 98 cm / 38-5/8" |
| US 6 | 72 cm / 28-3/8" | 102 cm / 40-1/4" |
| US 8 | 76 cm / 29-7/8" | 106 cm / 41-3/4" |
| US 10 | 80 cm / 31-1/2" | 110 cm / 43-3/8" |
| US 12 | 84 cm / 33-1/8" | 114 cm / 44-7/8" |
| US 14 | 88 cm / 34-5/8" | 118 cm / 46-1/2" |
| US 16 | 92 cm / 36-1/4" | 122 cm / 48" |
| US 18 | 96 cm / 37-3/4" | 126 cm / 49-5/8" |
| US 20 | 100 cm / 39-3/8" | 130 cm / 51-1/8" |
| US 22 | 104 cm / 40-7/8" | 134 cm / 52-3/4" |
| US 24 | 108 cm / 42-1/2" | 138 cm / 54-3/8" |
| US 26 | 112 cm / 44-1/8" | 142 cm / 55-7/8" |
- Skirt length: 78.67 cm / 31" (all sizes)
- Designed to fall approximately 7 cm / 2-3/4" above the ankle bone on a person who is 153 cm / 5' tall
Pocket Style Options
| Type | Style | Bow Tie Size |
|---|---|---|
| Type A | Big Bow Pocket | 41 cm / 16-1/8" long × 8 cm / 3-1/8" wide |
| Type B | Thin Bow Pocket | 67 cm / 26-3/8" long × 4 cm / 1-5/8" wide |
Both types use the same pocket construction method — the difference is the bow tie width and look. Type A creates a full, puffy bow; Type B creates a long, slender ribbon bow.
Difficulty Level
| Skill Level | Details |
|---|---|
| ⭐⭐⭐ Intermediate | Invisible zipper, bias binding, gathering, waistband construction |
This pattern is not recommended as a first project, but if you're comfortable with basic garment sewing and have installed a zipper before, you'll be able to follow along. The step-by-step photo instructions and YouTube tutorial make the process much clearer.
Key Techniques in This Pattern
1. Bow Tie Pocket Entrance
The signature detail of this skirt. Bias tape strips are folded and sewn to frame the pocket opening, and a bow tie is threaded through to gather and cinch the entrance. Type A uses a wide, structured bow; Type B uses a long, delicate ribbon.
2. Invisible Zipper
The zipper is installed at the center back before the side seams are sewn. A zipper foot is required. Fusible interfacing tape is applied to stabilize the seam before installation. The key tip: uncurl the zipper coils with your fingers and press them flat with an iron before stitching.
3. Gathering the Bell Hem
The bottom skirt layer is gathered using two rows of long machine stitches. Pull the threads gently and evenly to create the bell shape before sewing it to the upper skirt. This step gives the skirt its characteristic voluminous silhouette.
4. Waistband Construction
The waistband is folded and pressed in half, then applied to the wrong side of the skirt first before being topstitched on the right side. The zipper end is tucked neatly inside the waistband for a clean finish.
5. Hemming
The recommended hem method creates a lighter, more elegant finish than a simple double fold. Stitch at 1 cm / 3/8" without backstitching, fold along the stitched line, stitch again, then trim the seam allowance to about 2 mm / 1/8" before topstitching the final edge.
What's Included in the Pattern
- Pattern files for sizes US 0 – US 26
- Available in Ao, A4 and US Letter formats (print at home)
- Step-by-step photo instructions
- Paper-free cutting option for Back Skirt Bottom Layer, Waistband, Bias Tape, and Bow Tie
- YouTube video tutorial link included
- Lining pattern available on request (free) — just send a message!
💌 Leave a review after your purchase and receive a 20% off coupon for your next order!
Ready to Sew?
👉 Download the BB Skirt Pattern on Etsy
Once you've made your skirt, I'd love to see it! Share your creation on Instagram with #BBSkirt and tag @naminamidressmaker. 🎀
Pattern and instructions by naminami. For personal use only.
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