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How to Sew the Flower Bud Dress – Complete Guide (with Size Chart!)
If you've been looking for a dreamy, feminine dress to sew, the Flower Bud Dress might be exactly what you need. With its signature box pleats and delicate sleeve details, this dress is one of my most popular sewing patterns — and once you try it, you'll understand why.
In this post, I'll walk you through everything you need to know before you start sewing: fabric requirements, sizing, difficulty level, and the key techniques that make this dress so special.
What Is the Flower Bud Dress?
The Flower Bud Dress is a relaxed, feminine dress featuring:
- Box pleats on the front and back bodice for a beautifully structured silhouette
- Two sleeve options: elbow-length sleeves (easier) or bubble hem sleeves (intermediate)
- A scooped neckline finished with bias binding or a clean facing
- A flowy skirt with a knee-length hem (based on 160 cm / 5'3" height)
- Available in sizes 2XS through 2XL
It's the kind of dress that looks impressive but is very achievable once you understand the pleating technique.
What You'll Need
Fabric
The pattern works best with light to medium-weight, non-stretch fabrics such as:
- Cotton or linen poplin
- Batiste
- Voile
Note: If you choose bubble hem sleeves, you'll need extra fabric for the sleeve lining — use the same main fabric.
Required Fabric Yardage
| Size | 140 cm (55") wide | 150 cm (59") wide |
|---|---|---|
| 2XS – S | 3 yd (2.7 m) | 3 yd (2.7 m) |
| M – 2XL | 3.5 yd (3.2 m) | 3.5 yd (3.2 m) |
For 170 cm (67") wide fabric or wider, the same amounts apply to all sizes.
Additional Supplies
- Elastic band: 5–7 mm (approximately 3/8") wide
- Fusible interfacing (lightweight, at least 16" / 40 cm wide): 0.5 yd (0.46 m)
- Matching thread, pins, scissors or rotary cutter
Sizing Guide
Choose your size based on your bust measurement. If you're between sizes, size up.
| Size | Bust | Waist | Hip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2XS | 80 cm / 31-1/2" | 66 cm / 26" | 91 cm / 36" |
| XS | 85 cm / 33-1/2" | 71 cm / 28" | 95 cm / 37-1/2" |
| S | 90 cm / 35-3/8" | 76 cm / 30" | 100 cm / 39-3/8" |
| M | 95 cm / 37-3/8" | 81 cm / 32" | 105 cm / 41-3/8" |
| L | 100 cm / 39-3/8" | 86 cm / 33-7/8" | 110 cm / 43-3/8" |
| XL | 105 cm / 41-3/8" | — | 115 cm / 45-3/8" |
| 2XL | 110 cm / 43-3/8" | — | 120 cm / 47-1/4" |
Finished Garment Measurements
| Size | Bust (A) | Hip (B) | Sleeve Length (C) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2XS | 85 cm / 33-1/2" | 127.5 cm / 50-1/4" | 35 cm / 13-7/8" |
| XS | 89.8 cm / 35-3/8" | 129.9 cm / 51-1/8" | 35 cm / 13-7/8" |
| S | 94.6 cm / 37-1/4" | 132.3 cm / 52-1/8" | 35 cm / 13-7/8" |
| M | 100 cm / 39-3/8" | 150 cm / 59" | 36 cm / 14-1/4" |
| L | 104.8 cm / 41-1/4" | 154.8 cm / 60-7/8" | 36 cm / 14-1/4" |
| XL | 109.6 cm / 43-1/8" | 159.6 cm / 62-7/8" | 36 cm / 14-1/4" |
| 2XL | 114.4 cm / 45" | 164.4 cm / 64-3/4" | 36 cm / 14-1/4" |
- Skirt length: 60 cm / 23-5/8" (all sizes, knee length based on 160 cm / 5'3" height)
- Bubble hem sleeves are shorter: 2XS–S are 8 cm / 3-1/8" shorter, M–2XL are 5 cm / 2" shorter than C
Difficulty Level
| Sleeve Type | Difficulty | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Elbow length sleeves | ⭐⭐ Beginner–Intermediate | Everyday sewing, first-time makers |
| Bubble hem sleeves | ⭐⭐⭐ Intermediate–Advanced | Sewists comfortable with lining and elastic insertion |
The box pleating on the bodice takes patience, but the pattern instructions walk you through it step by step.
Watch the Tutorial First 🎬
Before you dive in, I recommend watching the full sewing tutorials on YouTube. It makes the written instructions so much easier to follow!
Full Sewing Tutorial (Elbow Sleeve Version)
Bubble Hem Sleeves Tutorial
Key Techniques in This Pattern
1. Box Pleats on the Bodice
The signature look of this dress comes from the box pleats. You'll mark pleat lines on the right side of the fabric, then fold them left and right alternately from the center. Press firmly and stitch only to the marked end line — not into the seam allowance.
2. Sleeve Pleats
The sleeve pleats are folded outward from the center on both sides, which creates the soft, voluminous sleeve shape. After folding, stitch along the top and bottom edges at 5 mm / 3/8" to secure the pleats.
3. Bias Binding (Elbow Sleeve Version)
The neckline and sleeve hems are finished with self-made bias tape cut from your main fabric, 3.5 cm / 1-3/8" wide before folding. Elastic is then threaded through the sleeve hems to create the gathered cuff.
4. Bubble Hem Sleeves (Advanced Option)
This involves a separate sleeve lining, neckline facings with fusible interfacing, and an elastic band inserted through the upper sleeve. The result is the puffy, structured bubble shape that gives this dress its name.
5. Ironing the Sleeve Pleats
This step is more important than it sounds. Iron the pleat lines while pulling the sleeve taut, then press with something heavy immediately after to set the crease. This creates the clean lines that hold their shape even after washing.
Elastic Band Reference
Elbow Sleeve Hem Elastic
| Size | Length |
|---|---|
| 2XS | 18.4 cm / 7-1/4" |
| XS | 19.6 cm / 7-3/4" |
| S | 20.8 cm / 8-1/4" |
| M | 22 cm / 8-5/8" |
| L | 23.2 cm / 9-1/8" |
| XL | 24.4 cm / 9-5/8" |
| 2XL | 25.6 cm / 10-1/8" |
Always measure your own forearm circumference to confirm the right length before cutting.
Bubble Hem Sleeve Elastic (Upper Arm)
| Size | Length |
|---|---|
| 2XS | 23 cm / 9-1/8" |
| XS | 24.1 cm / 9-1/2" |
| S | 25.4 cm / 10" |
| M | 26.7 cm / 10-1/2" |
| L | 27.9 cm / 11" |
| XL | 29.2 cm / 11-1/2" |
| 2XL | 30.5 cm / 12" |
Always measure your own bicep circumference to confirm before cutting.
What's Included in the Pattern
- 3 pattern files: bodice, elbow sleeves, and bubble hem sleeves
- Sizes 2XS–2XL (select your size when printing)
- Available in A0, A4, and US Letter formats
- Step-by-step photo instructions (29 pages)
- YouTube video tutorial link included
Ready to Sew?
👉 Download the Pattern on Etsy
Once you've made your dress, I'd love to see it! Share your creation on Instagram with #FlowerBudDress and tag @naminamidressmaker. 🌸
Pattern and instructions by naminami. For personal use only.
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