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How to Sew the Wave Dress – Complete Guide (with Size Chart!)
The Wave Dress is one of my most-loved designs — a sleeveless, pleated sundress with a beautifully voluminous skirt and clean, elegant lines. It looks like something you'd buy in a boutique, but it's very achievable once you understand the pleating and sizing. In this guide, I'll walk you through everything you need to know before you start cutting.
👉 Get the Wave Dress Pattern on Etsy
What Is the Wave Dress?
The Wave Dress is a sleeveless pleated dress featuring:
- Box pleats on both the front and back bodice for a structured, feminine silhouette
- A voluminous skirt with a 70 cm / 27-1/2" length from the waistline (all sizes)
- French seam side pockets — hidden and clean-finished
- An invisible zipper at the center back
- A clean facing finish at the neckline with self-fabric shoulder straps
- Available in sizes 2XS through 2XL
Watch the Tutorial First 🎬
Before you dive in, I highly recommend watching the full sewing tutorial on YouTube. The pleating and zipper steps are much easier to follow along with video!
Full Wave Dress Sewing Tutorial
⚠️ Important: How to Choose Your Size
Measure the circumference of your chest 9 cm / 3-1/2" above the bust point, with no clothes on and no extra ease. Then match that measurement to the finished garment measurements below and size down if you are between sizes.
This is different from most patterns! If you measure by full bust, the bodice may be too loose at the top. Take the time to measure correctly before cutting.
What You'll Need
Main Fabric
Light to medium-weight, woven fabrics are recommended:
- Cotton or linen poplin
- Batiste
- Voile
Required Fabric Width and Yardage
This pattern requires 2.5 yd / 2.3 m for all sizes, but the required fabric width varies by size.
| Size | Minimum Fabric Width Required |
|---|---|
| 2XS | 117.5 cm / 46" |
| XS | 125 cm / 49" |
| S | 132.5 cm / 52" |
| M | 140 cm / 55" |
| L | 147.5 cm / 58" * |
| XL | 155 cm / 61" * |
| 2XL | 162.5 cm / 64" * |
* From size L upward, wide-width fabric is required. Standard 44–45" fabric will not be wide enough.
Additional Supplies
- Invisible zipper: 35.5 cm / 14" long, 1 piece
- Fusible interfacing: 90 cm (35") wide / 0.46 m (0.5 yd)
- Interfacing tape (optional): 1 cm / 3/8" wide / 0.6 m (0.65 yd)
- Matching thread, pins, zipper foot
Sizing Guide
Body Measurements
| Size | Bust | Waist | Hip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2XS | 80 cm / 31-1/2" | 66 cm / 26" | 91 cm / 36" |
| XS | 85 cm / 33-1/2" | 71 cm / 28" | 95 cm / 37-1/2" |
| S | 90 cm / 35-3/8" | 76 cm / 30" | 100 cm / 39-3/8" |
| M | 95 cm / 37-3/8" | 81 cm / 32" | 105 cm / 41-3/8" |
| L | 100 cm / 39-3/8" | 86 cm / 33-7/8" | 110 cm / 43-3/8" |
| XL | 105 cm / 41-3/8" | — | 115 cm / 45-3/8" |
| 2XL | 110 cm / 43-3/8" | — | 120 cm / 47-1/4" |
Finished Garment Measurements
| Size | Upper Bust (A) | Shoulder Strap Length (B) | Pleat Stitch Length (C) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2XS | 75 cm / 29-1/2" | 32.08 cm / 12-5/8" | 14 cm / 5-1/2" |
| XS | 80 cm / 31-1/2" | 32.88 cm / 12-7/8" | 14 cm / 5-1/2" |
| S | 85 cm / 33-1/2" | 33.69 cm / 13-1/4" | 14 cm / 5-1/2" |
| M | 90 cm / 35-3/8" | 34.5 cm / 13-5/8" | 14 cm / 5-1/2" |
| L | 95 cm / 37-3/8" | 35.31 cm / 13-7/8" | 14.6 cm / 5-3/4" |
| XL | 100 cm / 39-3/8" | 36.12 cm / 14-1/4" | 15.2 cm / 6" |
| 2XL | 105 cm / 41-3/8" | 36.92 cm / 14-1/2" | 15.8 cm / 6-1/4" |
- Skirt length (D): 70 cm / 27-1/2" from waistline (all sizes)
Remember: size by upper bust (measured 9 cm / 3-1/2" above the bust point), and size down if between sizes.
Difficulty Level
| Skill Level | Details |
|---|---|
| ⭐⭐⭐ Intermediate | Box pleats on front and back bodice, invisible zipper, French seam pockets, facing construction |
This pattern is not a beginner project, but if you're comfortable with pleating and have installed an invisible zipper before, you'll be able to follow along with the step-by-step photo instructions and YouTube tutorial.
Key Techniques in This Pattern
1. Marking and Folding the Pleats
The front bodice has box pleats that radiate outward from the center front. You'll mark the pleat lines on the right side of the fabric using the pattern, then fold each line to meet the next, alternating left and right. The key detail: stitch only up to the marked pleat stitch end line — never into the side seam allowance. The back bodice is pleated in the same way, with a 1.5 cm / 5/8" seam allowance at the center back instead of 1 cm / 3/8".
2. Invisible Zipper at the Center Back
The zipper is sewn into the back center seam before the back seam is fully closed. Press the zipper coil flat with an iron before stitching, and use a zipper foot throughout. The interfacing is applied 1.5 cm / 5/8" from the back center seam to stabilize it — for sizes 2XS–M, apply 8 cm / 3-1/8" down from the waist notch; for L–2XL, apply 10 cm / 4" down.
3. French Seam Pockets
The pockets are constructed using a French seam technique for a completely clean finish inside the pocket bag. The pocket is placed 2 cm / 3/4" below the waist notch on the wrong side of the front bodice. Be careful not to catch the pocket entrance when sewing the side seams.
4. Facing and Shoulder Straps
The shoulder straps are pinned facing downward before the facing is attached — they'll flip upward once the facing is sewn. Position the straps 7.5 cm / 3" from the side seam on both front and back. The facing is pulled out 5 mm to the side at the zipper end before stitching, which creates a small space for the zipper end to tuck in neatly.
5. Hemming
The recommended hem method keeps the skirt light and floaty. Stitch at 1 cm / 3/8" without backstitching, fold along the stitched line, stitch again, trim the seam allowance to about 2 mm / 1/8", then fold once more and topstitch the final edge.
What's Included in the Pattern
- Pattern files for sizes 2XS – 2XL
- Available in A0, A4 and US Letter formats (print at home)
- 2XS–S: 40 sheets / M–L: 45 sheets / XL–2XL: 50 sheets
- Step-by-step photo instructions (30 pages)
- YouTube video tutorial link included
Ready to Sew?
👉 Download the Wave Dress Pattern on Etsy
Once you've made your dress, I'd love to see it! Share your creation on Instagram with #TheWaveDress and tag @naminamidressmaker. 🌊
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